Types of Garlic

Softneck - This is the type most often found in grocery stores. Their necks stay soft at maturity, allowing them to be braided for storage. This type is best suited to warmer climates and keeps longer than hardneck varieties, storing for 9 months or more. Softneck bulbs usually have more cloves than hardneck types. The outer layer holds medium-sized cloves, while the inside has 2-4 layers of smaller cloves. The flavor is milder compared to hardneck garlic.

Hardneck - This type develops a stiff central stalk and is exceptionally cold hardy, making it popular in northern climates. It produces fewer cloves than softneck types, but the cloves are larger and easier to peel. The flavor is stronger and more complex, which many cooks prefer for fresh use. Hardneck garlic does not store as long as softneck varieties, typically storing for no longer than 6 months.

When to Plant Garlic

Plant in the fall, between 2-4 weeks before the soil freezes in your area. This gives the plants a chance to grow roots before winter sets in. In most parts of the country, that means planting them between late September (colder, Northern regions) and November (warmer, Southern regions). Here in North Texas, we plant garlic in late October. In very mild areas, garlic can be planted in late winter or very early spring, though fall planting usually gives better results.

Where to Plant Garlic

Garlic likes fertile, well-drained soil with a pH around 6-7, and full sun. Poorly drained soil can lead to disease or poor bulb formation. Garlic is commonly grown in raised beds to prevent this. Garlic is best grown in soil that has been loosened at least 8 inches deep, and can benefit from a layer of mulch to help protect against temperature swings.

How to Plant Garlic

Separate the garlic bulbs into individual cloves. Each clove will sprout and make its own plant, and eventually, a new full bulb. Plant each bulb approximately 6 inches apart. For row crops, space rows 24" apart, but if you are planting them in raised beds, spacing each row 6" apart works just fine as well. Plant the clove root end (rounded part) down, about 2-3" deep. You can then cover with 3-4" of mulch from grass clippings, straw, or leaves to help prevent cold damage. The largest cloves will produce larger bulbs, and the smaller cloves found inside softneck varieties are often grown as garlic greens.

Growing the Garlic to Harvest

It is not uncommon for garlic to begin to sprout if planted when temperatures are consistently between 50-60°F, but this is completely fine. As cold temperatures resume, the shoots will die back, and the bulbs will enter dormancy. This shouldn't affect the expected yield the following season.

Garlic is a heavy feeder, and benefits from nitrogen. In the fall, add compost, or a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer, such as aged manure, alfalfa meal, or bone meal. In the spring, add a fast-release source of nitrogen once the shoots reach about 6" tall to help produce larger bulbs. Consistent moisture is very important, especially during bulbing. Keep your bed free of weeds. Reduce watering frequency when the bulbs are nearly mature.

Hardneck varieties will form flower stalks, called garlic scapes, about 1-2 months after the first leaves. Cut off these scapes to encourage the plant to focus its energy on growing the bulb rather than the scape. These scapes are actually edible and can be used in pesto or other dishes that call for garlic.

Harvesting and Curing Garlic

Once the bottom half of the plant has turned brown and the top leaves are still green, it's time to harvest. Softneck varieties will naturally fall over, which is also a sign that they are ready to harvest. Don't leave the bulbs in the ground for too long, or they will rot.

At this point, the bulbs are more delicate, so it's best to loosen the soil with a fork and lift them gently. Try not to bruise the bulbs. Gently brush off any loose soil, but leave the roots and foliage (leaves and stems) attached. Although it's tempting to use freshly harvested garlic, curing improves flavor, makes the cloves easier to process, and allows the bulbs to store longer. Cure the bulbs in a shaded spot that gets good airflow, such as a barn, garage, or attic. Gentle airflow is important, so for a garage or other enclosed space, add a fan, but don't point it directly at the curing bulbs. Avoid high heat or direct sun. Hang the bulbs in bundles or spread as a single layer on drying racks, such as screens. Bulbs should be cured in about 2-3 weeks, or when the neck is dry, and the outer skin is papery. Once cured, trim the stalks and roots. For softneck varieties, you can choose to braid them together and let them cure together.

Storing Garlic

If you cured your garlic in bundles or braided them, simply hang it up in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place. For any bulbs that you removed the stalks and roots, you can store them in a mesh bag, crate, or open container. Garlic is best stored at 45-55°F and 50-60% humidity. If stored in the refrigerator, they will likely sprout.